- July 24, 2025
🧭 Introduction to Gasherbrum II
Gasherbrum II, also known as G2, stands tall at 8,035 meters (26,362 feet) and is the 13th highest peak in the world. Located in the Karakoram range on the Pakistan-China border, this snow-covered giant is one of the most popular 8000-meter peaks due to its comparatively less technical route. Gasherbrum II is often considered a suitable target for climbers transitioning into high-altitude Himalayan expeditions.
This guide offers everything from route details, gear checklist, and logistics to weather tips, acclimatization strategy, and emergency planning, ensuring your climb aligns with Google’s EEAT standards of Experience, Expertise, Authority, and Trust.
📍 Location and Geographical Importance
Situated near the China–Pakistan border within the Baltoro Glacier region of Gilgit-Baltistan, Gasherbrum II lies adjacent to its twin, Gasherbrum I, and not far from Broad Peak and K2. The region is accessible only by trekking and offers raw alpine wilderness far from commercial mountain routes.
☀️ Best Time for Gasherbrum II Expedition
The ideal climbing season is late June to early August, when weather conditions in the Karakoram are most stable. Snowfall, crevasses, and avalanches are common outside this window.
| Month | Conditions |
|---|---|
| June | Good for Basecamp approach |
| July | Ideal for summit window |
| August | Stable weather, late snow |
| September+ | Risk of avalanches |
🗺️ Gasherbrum II Expedition Route Overview
Base Camp to Summit Camps
The standard climbing route is via the Southwest Ridge, often described as “non-technical but very demanding.” Here’s a summary of the camps:
| Camp | Elevation | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Base Camp | 4,950 m | Set on the Baltoro Glacier |
| Camp I | 5,900 m | Accessed via moraine and crevasse fields |
| Camp II | 6,400 m | A steep and icy ascent from Camp I |
| Camp III | 6,900–7,000 m | Exposed slope leading to the summit ridge |
| Summit | 8,035 m | Windy ridge with breathtaking views |
🛣️ How to Reach Gasherbrum II from Islamabad
Travel Route Breakdown
| Segment | Mode of Travel | Duration |
|---|---|---|
| Islamabad to Skardu | Flight or road | 1 hour (flight) / 2 days (by road) |
| Skardu to Askole | Jeep | 7–8 hours |
| Askole to Base Camp | Trekking | 6–8 days via Baltoro Glacier |
Gasherbrum II expedition planning starts in Islamabad, from where climbers either take a flight to Skardu or drive via Karakoram Highway. A rugged jeep journey follows, ending in Askole, the last village before the trek to Base Camp.
🧗 Activities During the Expedition
- High-altitude climbing (above 8,000m)
- Glacier trekking across Baltoro and Abruzzi
- Acclimatization rotations between camps
- Photography at Concordia and Base Camp
- Stargazing in pollution-free skies
- Cultural exchange with local Balti porters
🎒 Essential Gear for Gasherbrum II
Gasherbrum II requires specialized equipment for both technical climbing and survival in extreme cold.
Climbing Equipment
- Crampons, ice axe, and helmet
- Harness, ropes, and snow stakes
- High-altitude boots and gaiters
Survival Gear
- 8000m down suit
- Oxygen system (optional but recommended)
- Expedition tent, GPS, headlamp
🧠 Physical Preparation & Acclimatization
A strong cardiovascular base and mountaineering conditioning are key. The body needs 2–3 rotations before the final summit push.
Acclimatization Plan
| Rotation | Route | Duration |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | BC → Camp I → BC | 3 days |
| 2 | BC → Camp II → BC | 4 days |
| 3 | BC → Camp III → BC | 5 days |
Gradual exposure allows your body to adjust to the low oxygen levels, a cornerstone of Gasherbrum II expedition planning.
🌨️ Weather Conditions and Risks
Gasherbrum II has an unpredictable climate. While the Karakoram gets less snow than the Himalayas, storm systems can form rapidly.
Risks to Watch:
- High winds above 7,000 m
- Avalanches post snowfall
- Crevasses in glacier fields
- Frostbite and AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness)
🧭 Cultural Insights & Local Support
Hiring local porters and high-altitude guides from Skardu or Hushe is both ethical and practical. The Balti people have supported expeditions for decades and offer invaluable logistical and cultural insights.
Supporting the local economy aligns with responsible and sustainable Gasherbrum II expedition planning.
💸 Estimated Costs (in PKR)
| Expense | Cost (Approx.) |
|---|---|
| Islamabad to Skardu Flight | PKR 25,000 – 35,000 |
| Jeep Rental to Askole (roundtrip) | PKR 120,000 – 150,000 |
| Porter Fees | PKR 20,000 – 25,000/day |
| Trekking & Basecamp Staff | PKR 300,000 – 500,000 |
| Expedition Permit (foreigners) | PKR 200,000+ |
| Expedition Logistics (15-25 days) | PKR 1.5M – 2.5M |
🧭 Suggested Day-Wise Itinerary for Gasherbrum II Expedition
This carefully planned Gasherbrum II itinerary is designed to maximize acclimatization, safety, and summit success. It spans roughly 50 days, covering the journey from Islamabad to the summit and back.
📅 Day 1: Arrival in Islamabad
Arrive at Islamabad International Airport. Meet your expedition coordinator, transfer to the hotel, and attend a welcome briefing. Rest and prepare for upcoming travel.
🛫 Day 2: Fly to Skardu (2,228m) or Drive via KKH
Weather permitting, take a scenic flight to Skardu in 1 hour. If flights are canceled, travel by road via the Karakoram Highway, taking 20–24 hours over two days. Overnight stay in Skardu.
🏢 Day 3: Expedition Briefing and Preparation in Skardu
Visit the Ministry of Tourism for an official briefing. Final shopping, packing, and distribution of loads to porters. Enjoy local food and adjust to the altitude.
🚙 Day 4: Drive to Askole (3,000m) – 6-7 hours
Board 4×4 jeeps for a thrilling off-road journey to Askole, the last inhabited village before the trek begins. Set up tents and camp under the stars.
🥾 Day 5: Trek to Jhula (3,200m) – 5-6 hours
Begin trekking on the Baltoro Glacier route. Walk along the Braldu River, cross suspension bridges, and camp at Jhula.
⛰️ Day 6: Trek to Paiju (3,420m) – 6-7 hours
Enjoy magnificent views of Trango Towers and Cathedral Peak. Reach Paiju and spend the evening near the snout of the Baltoro Glacier.
🛌 Day 7: Rest and Acclimatization at Paiju
A full day to rest, adjust to the altitude, and allow porters to bake fresh bread. Short hikes around the area for acclimatization.
🧗 Day 8: Trek to Khoburtse (3,810m) – 6-7 hours
Continue trekking along the Baltoro Glacier with dramatic views of Uli Biaho and Trango Towers. Camp at Khoburtse.
🏔️ Day 9: Trek to Urdukas (4,050m) – 4-5 hours
Short but steep trail. Set camp at Urdukas, one of the most scenic camping spots overlooking the granite spires.
🧊 Day 10: Trek to Goro II (4,280m) – 6-7 hours
Trek entirely on glacial terrain. First glimpses of Gasherbrum IV and the Broad Peak massif. Camp at Goro II.
🏕️ Day 11: Trek to Concordia (4,600m) – 5-6 hours
Reach the junction of Baltoro and Godwin-Austen glaciers—Concordia, known as the “Throne Room of the Gods.” View K2, Gasherbrum II, and Broad Peak.
🏞️ Day 12: Trek to Gasherbrum Base Camp (5,000m) – 5-6 hours
Final trek to the Gasherbrum II Base Camp. Set up the main base camp and rest. Preparation for climbing phase begins.
🧘 Day 13–17: Rest and Acclimatization at Base Camp
Spend several days adjusting to altitude. Practice using climbing gear, rope techniques, and review safety protocols. Short hikes for acclimatization.
🧗 Day 18–35: Rotation Climbs to Camp I, II, and III
Establish Camp I (6,000m), Camp II (6,500m), and Camp III (7,200m) gradually. Perform rotation climbs between camps to acclimatize and cache supplies.
🛌 Day 36–38: Rest Days at Base Camp
Return to base for rest, recovery, and monitoring weather windows for summit push.
🏔️ Day 39–43: Summit Push to Gasherbrum II (8,035m)
Ascend from Base Camp to Camp III over 2-3 days. Start summit push early from Camp III. The final summit day involves climbing through steep snow and ice slopes. Reach the summit of Gasherbrum II, capturing breathtaking views of Karakoram giants.
🧭 Day 44–46: Descent to Base Camp
Safely descend through the camps, retrieving gear. Celebrate successful summit with teammates.
🏕️ Day 47: Trek Back to Concordia
Start your return journey, trekking back to Concordia, and enjoy the scenery from a new perspective.
⛺ Day 48: Trek to Goro II
Camp overnight at Goro II with views of surrounding peaks.
🏞️ Day 49: Trek to Urdukas or Paiju
Depending on pace, camp at Urdukas or Paiju. Reflect on your incredible journey.
🚛 Day 50: Trek to Askole and Drive to Skardu
End your trek in Askole. Transfer to jeeps and drive back to Skardu. Overnight stay in a hotel.
🛫 Day 51: Flight or Drive to Islamabad
Return to Islamabad by air or road, depending on weather. Debrief at the Ministry.
🎉 Day 52: Free Day in Islamabad and Farewell Dinner
Explore the capital city, visit Faisal Mosque or local bazaars. Enjoy a farewell dinner with the expedition team.
✈️ Day 53: Departure from Islamabad
Transfer to Islamabad International Airport for your departure, completing the unforgettable Gasherbrum II expedition.
🏔️ Famous Summits of Gasherbrum II
🧗♂️ 1956 – First Ascent by Austrian Team
The first successful summit of Gasherbrum II was achieved on July 8, 1956 by an Austrian expedition led by Fritz Moravec, along with Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart. They climbed via the Southwest Ridge, which is still the standard route today.
🌐 1975 – First Pakistani Ascent
In 1975, a Pakistani team made history by successfully summiting the peak. This was a moment of national pride and demonstrated Pakistan’s growing mountaineering capabilities.
🧭 1984 – Reinhold Messner’s Speed Ascent
The legendary mountaineer Reinhold Messner, known for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen, made a rapid and alpine-style ascent of Gasherbrum II with Hans Kammerlander. Their minimalist style changed the way climbs were perceived.
❄️ 2011 – First Winter Ascent
On February 2, 2011, a Polish team led by Cory Richards, Simone Moro, and Denis Urubko achieved the first-ever winter ascent of Gasherbrum II. This was a major feat in the climbing community and one of the few successful winter ascents of 8000m peaks.
🏳️🌈 2021 – First Solo Pakistani Female Climber Attempt
Naila Kiani, a well-known Pakistani climber, attempted Gasherbrum II as part of her mission to scale multiple 8000ers. Her progress inspired a new wave of female climbers in Pakistan.
These ascents not only reflect the technical challenges of Gasherbrum II but also the mountain’s prominent role in the evolution of global high-altitude climbing.
🏨 Where to Stay During the Journey
Islamabad
- Serena Hotel
- Envoy Continental
Skardu
- Shangrila Resort
- Hotel One Skardu
Base Camp
- Expedition tents (carried with you)
🍲 What to Eat on the Expedition
Bring freeze-dried meals, protein bars, nuts, dried fruits, instant soups, and hydration salts. Base camp cooks often prepare chapati, rice, lentils, and Balti-style curry.
🧰 Travel Packing Checklist
- Climbing equipment
- Cold-weather gear
- Sunscreen & glacier glasses
- Satellite phone or radio
- Water purification tablets
- Medical kit with acetazolamide
☎️ Emergency Contacts & Health Measures
- Pakistan Alpine Club: +92 51 9246725
- Skardu Hospital: +92 5815 920125
- Askari Aviation Rescue: +92 51 9272933
- Tourism Office (GB): +92 5811 920687
💡 Travel Tips for Gasherbrum II
- Begin physical training 6–8 months before the climb
- Check weather through Mountain Forecast daily
- Stay in Skardu for at least 2 nights before heading to Askole
- Avoid alcohol and smoking pre-expedition
❓ FAQs
What is the ideal time for a Gasherbrum II expedition?
The best time to climb Gasherbrum II is mid-June to early August. This period offers better weather windows and reduced avalanche risk.
Is Gasherbrum II suitable for first-time 8000m climbers?
Yes, it is considered the easiest 8000er technically, making it ideal for climbers aiming to enter the 8000m league.
How long does a Gasherbrum II expedition take?
The total duration is about 6–8 weeks, including acclimatization, rotations, and weather holds.
Can I climb Gasherbrum II without supplemental oxygen?
Yes, many do. However, carrying emergency oxygen is advised, especially for summit day.
What are the major risks during the expedition?
- Altitude sickness
- Crevasse falls
- Frostbite
- Avalanches
What insurance should I get?
High-altitude rescue and helicopter evacuation insurance are essential for expeditions in Pakistan.
Is Wi-Fi or satellite internet available?
No, but satellite phones and Garmin inReach devices are commonly used by teams.
Can I climb solo?
Climbing without a guide is legal but discouraged due to the remote nature and unpredictable weather.
Do I need a climbing permit?
Yes. It’s issued by the Alpine Club of Pakistan, and applications are handled by your local tour operator.
What fitness level is required?
You must have advanced endurance, the ability to hike 8–10 hours daily with weight, and previous alpine experience.
🏁 Conclusion
Gasherbrum II is more than a mountain—it’s a calling for climbers who seek a serious yet achievable 8000-meter challenge. With proper Gasherbrum II expedition planning, from training and gear to safety and local respect, you can stand atop the 13th highest point on Earth with pride.
Prepare with precision, respect the mountain, and you’ll make memories that last a lifetime.
